JULIEN COUDRAY MANUFACTURA 1528 PT950 "L'AIGLE ROYAL" UNIQUE PIECE
There are enamel dials, and then there are works that demand a lifetime.
The “grand feu” enamel dial of this Julien Coudray Manufactura 1528 is the result of years spent under master enamellers in Le Locle. Enamel is unforgiving. It cracks, shifts, darkens, resists. Only experience turns failure into control. Only patience allows each particle to settle exactly where it must before the dial is fired and permanently fixed in time.
At the centre sits a grand feu enamel miniature executed using Jean Petitot’s historic “point by point” technique of 1630. Each microscopic dot of enamel is placed individually, building the image of L’Aigle Royal with extraordinary depth and precision. The result is neither painted nor printed. It is fused into gold through fire, giving the image a permanence no pigment can rival.
The dial itself is a 13-part construction in solid 18ct Pd125 white gold, enamelled in traditional black and white domed cartouches. Every surface is worked, fired and refined by hand. Nothing is lacquered. Nothing is chemically treated.
Inside beats a fully in-house mechanical movement crafted from solid platinum. The manufacturing process, protected by multiple patents, results in a calibre that is hand-wound, hand-engraved and hand-decorated. Even the 18ct gold service indicator is enamelled by hand. The movement delivers more than 55 hours of power reserve and is set with 34 jewels.
A discreet innovation sits at 12 o’clock. After four years of operation, an enamelled gold oil drop symbol appears in a small window, signalling that the watch requires service. It is a poetic mechanical reminder rather than a digital warning.
The 39mm case, just 9.85mm in height, is machined from solid platinum. Sapphire crystal and caseback are treated with anti-reflective coating. The collar is formed from solid 18ct Pd125 white gold. The blued hands achieve their colour through controlled heat alone, without chemical treatment or lacquer.
Ninety five percent of this watch is made from 1.5 kilograms of solid platinum, including the movement, case, crown and buckle. It is paired with a hand-stitched dark blue alligator strap, lined with alligator leather, and secured by a solid platinum buckle engraved with a pictogram.
Manufactured in Le Locle, Switzerland, and accompanied by SGS certification, this is a 1 of 1 creation. Not a limited edition. A unique masterpiece.
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